Llama-rama

Hola Kuchiwatos (we now speak Quechua)!!

At an altitude of 3300m above sea level, a temp of about -3 degrees and an univiting time of the morning, we made our debut in Cuzco. On advice of the Lonely planet we puffed our way up about 200 stairs (puffing due to altitude not lack of fitness!!!!) to a recommended hostel.

Ok, while it may not have been -3 it was a LOT colder than we expected and it sent us into a llama wool frenzy, buying matching llama wool and print beanies, socks and mittens. Suffering through bouts of altitude sickness we prepared ourselves for the Inca Trail. We actually tag teamed altitude sickness, one would feel terrible and the other would feel great and be pumped for Inca, this cycle continued for 2 days!! Meaning you never wanted the other person to start feeling better, malicious we know but altitude sickness is not fun.

Newly decked out in a LOT of plastic (pants, shoe covers, rain jackets and Ponchos) and our llama gear we set of for the Inca trail at 5.30AM on Tuesday morning. Our group consisted of our guide Domingo, 5 porters, one cook, a young hippy American couple and us.

Dias Uno
The first so called easy day did start off easy but did not end that way. The first bit of the track was undulating and we stopped frequently to observe the landscape and learn about the history and culture of the Inca´s. We even got to meet a tequila plant in person much to our delight, Kate tried to drink it (those who know Monique can attest that she isnt really a tequilla fan).

The rain started just before lunch, however our trusty porters had rushed ahead to set up our lunch tent and cook us a 5 star meal. Being given a banana at the start of the day and told this was lunch, we were delighted when we found out this was the first of many tall tales from Domingo. After lunch we expected to go down hill for a while then up a gentle hill. Turned out to be another tall tale, we went uphill the whole time. Despite our sluggish ascent, the porters ran past us in sandals with large gas bottles strapped to their backs. We were informed each porter carries about 40kg and they run the whole way to arrive at camp early to set up and cook for the trekkers.

Dias Dos
We woke up at 5.20am to a amazing breakfast (Unfortuantly Monique missed out on Kates beloved crepes due to altitude sickness). We set off unsure about the day ahead as we were told that the first day was very easy compared to the second day, a 17km trek up and down hill. Our experiences of climbing the first pass were very different. Kate powered up the first pass which was a climb from 3300m to a staggering 4200m. Though she kindly waited for Monique who really struggled up the hill due to a lethal combination of asthma, altitude sickness and an empty stomach. In the footsteps of Suzy, infamous for christining Jacobs Ladder, Monique christened the Inca trail a number of times. It was a hard morning but we made it to the top in much better spirits knowing the hardest climb was over.

After a steep downhill trek and Kate unintentionaly flashing the campsite we arrived at lunch, which again was amazing and again Monique could only nibble plain pasta. The second pass followed, this was a steep climb from 3600m to 4000m, which was completed with a much less fatalistic attitude on Moniques part. Then a very steep and slippery trek back down to our campsite at a height of 3500m. This descent was HARSH on the knees and we were convinced we would need reconstructions by the time we arrived at camp. Only able to eat popcorn (a sad fate) the cooks brought Monique plates full at tea time. Not to be confused with dinner time, yes we were well fed, especially Kate who was constantly treated to yummy vego food.

Dias Tres
On our only sleep-in morning, we were awoken early, freezing cold as our tents had not protected us from the harsh elements. We were soaked! Content that we were not the only ones kayaking out of our tent (in the words of Domingo), we set off sore for the short downhill day ahead.

Despite some knee (Kate) and stupid weak ankle (Monique) problems it was a pleasant day with great weather for that time of year. We trekked slowly downhill with Domingo, who fed us information about the trail. After finding out Monique liked orchids, Domingo was on a mission to find as many orchids to photograph as possible, he took this VERY seriously. The American couple powered ahead as they had every day, they were well prepared as they had done a canyon hike not that long before.

Our camp for the night was situated in a spectacular position with views of the surrounding mountains and Inca ruins. In addition to this it had electricity, hot showers and a Discotheque, yes even the Inca trail has one! We spent the night eating (again) and drinking tequila with Domingo who claimed it was his first time. Warm and fuzzy we went to sleep excited for the next day which would see us at the end of our pilgrimage to Machu Picchu.

Dias Cuatro
Machu Picchu
Setting off at 4.30am, we had a 1.5 hr easy (compared to last days) walk to the infamous ruins. We were incredibly lucky with the weather with the clouds clearing and sun shining as we approached, a rarity for this time of year. Machu Picchu was more than we ever imagined. We were first given a tour and information about the ruins from Domingo and were then free to wander around. Settling ourselves into a shady position up the top of the ruins, we enjoyed a peaceful hour just sitting & taking it all in. The whole journey had been such an amazing experience. We had lunch in a cute little town just below the ruins and said our sad, sad goodbyes to our beloved Domingo and headed off on the train ride of a lifetime!!

The train was truly the craziest public transport experience of all time. We were going along (very slowly) when the train started rolling backwards, fast. Then out of nowhere started going forward again, confused we just assumed other trains needed to pass. Towards the end of the four hour ride we were instructed to shut our windows, we later found out this was because rogue kids catapult stones through them at tourists! Soon after this we started to roll backwards again, only to go forwards then backwards AGAIN down the same track! This continued for about an hour until we finally made it back to Cuzco, to our surprise in one piece. We were greeted in Cuzco by 10cm of hail on the ground, apparently we had missed a freak storm!

After an altercation with a taxi driver (who chased us) and a hotel receptionist (who held our bag hostage) we finally collapsed into bed. Determined to leave this hostel - a dingy cold HOLE, Kate set off early the next morning to find a better hostel where we could have a hot shower, wash our clothes and finally be clean again.

We are currently being held hostage in Cuzco due to Moniques festy foot of doom. Due to an infection, Monique had to have a visit from the doctor and an expensive trip to the pharmacy, yes we are sure you are all shocked!! After another foot related incident today, Kate has wrapped Monique in cotton wool and put her on hostel arrest. (Dont worry Mum and Dad, I am totally fine and Kate has assured me I will not loose any limbs in South America.)

Wow that was a big one, should keep you all amused for a while.

xxooxx

Love

Monica and Katisita