Jan 2007

Hello!! (Yes, we are tired!)

Spending an additional 4 days in Cuzco, we found an awesome OCD doctor who fixed up Monique & her dodgy foot.

During this time in Cuzco, Kate took the opportunity to go horse riding to the Inca Ruins on a "horse of death" which answered to no-one and even jumped a creek!!

We bumped into an english girl we had met weeks ago in La Serena & caught up with her for a few meals.

On her advice, we set off for Puno, spending only a day there for a whirlwind tour of the floating islands in Lake Titicaca. The floating islands were incredible, originally designed to escape the Spanish conquerers. These islands are made completely of reeds, including the island base, houses, boats & they even eat them!! Whole villages still live on these islands, surviving off visiting tourists, and now enjoy many creature comforts including solar power and tvs!

From Puno, it was straight back on the bus to Copacabana, our first stop in Bolivia. We were pleasantly surprised by our chosen hotel which had awesome views over Lake Titicaca.

The next day, we caught a boat to the Island of the Sun. The boat carried abt 75 ppl and was powered by 2 small outboard motors. No surprise, it travelled at around 4-5 km per hour and took 2 hrs to travel less than the distance to Rotto. The island of the sun was just that, with both of us getting burnt despite putting sunscreen on 4 times in 4 hours!! According to Inca legend, the island of the sun is the birthplace of the sun and the earth. On a four hour trek across the island, we visited the rock where the sun was made & the temple of the sun. Well, this was our best interpretation of what our spanish guide was saying!! Kate also decided to go for a 2 km run, despite being at 4000m above sea level, to retrieve a ring she lost at the beginning of the trek....one the many items Kate has lost in a continual scattering of her personal belongings across the continent!! NOTE: Unbelieveably, Monique is yet to lose anything, despite having freaked out at potential losses many times!

We decided to stay on in Copacabana to celebrate Australia Day there. Getting all dressed up (well, if you count dresses over thermals and pants) we donned australian flag tattoos on our cheeks and hit the town!! Having dinner at Kates favourite veggie restaurant, we were hit on continually by the dodgy waiter who even tried to photograph us as we left!! Finding NEMO´S, a trendy pub, we settled in for the night downing sweet daiquiris and making new friends.

Feeling somewhat dodgy the following day, we battled with a corrupt local banking system which denies foreigners the use of the local ATM, forcing them to pay large commissions on a cash advance. Yes, we are bitter and yes, Kate had to be restrained by Monique!! Finally cashed up, we paid up our local debts and headed onto the first bus for La Paz.

The bus trip did not go as expected, potentially due to our lack of understanding of the Spanish language. We were suprised to be forced off the bus at a lake crossing. The empty bus then boarded a creaky old wooden "boat" to cross to the other side of the lake. We all followed across on an equally creaky boat.

Having heard numerous horror stories about La Paz, we ventured off the bus cautiously, clinging our bags once again and determined not to go anywhere near dodgy taxis or fake police. We found an average hostel for the night, for a reasonable price but to detriment of our health. Bolivia is a smoke friendly environment!! We ventured out for dinner, finding a nice restaurant where we would subsequently eat our next 4 meals. It was really good, ok!

We spent the next morning wandering around the black markets where we avoided the temptation to purchase llama fetuses or meat sold on dirty tarps on the street. Deciding to stay on another night, we found a nearby hotel which featured cable tv and a clean bathroom. Both being sick, we needed a night in, in front of the tv! Our night in, however, was not so as an encounter with a nut riddled caeser salad led to a trip (in a La Paz taxi) to a posh doctors clinic to see an "english speaking doctor" whose vocubulary included only the word "ok". After a couple of STERILE injections, all was well & we returned (by taxi) to the hotel. Note: Who puts nuts in a Caeser Salad!!!!!!!!!!

The next morning, we bid farewell to our new La Paz friends and boarded ANOTHER bus, this time to Oruro. When we arrived in Oruro, we set off around town in an Amazing Race style bid for the limited accommodation being offered here. After settling into our new room, we set off to the train station to buy our tickets for the next leg of our journey. Walking down the street, Kate was targeted by a gang of delinquent youths (monique wants it to be noted that they were children, but she wouldnt understand!). Passing by Monique disguised in a large hat and sunnies, this vicious gang circled Kate and began to pelt her and her bag at close range with large water guns and water balloons. Obviously assuming she was a gringo (from usa) due to her blonde hair, the gang struck hard and fast leaving Kate shaken and wet!!

Now aware of the presence of these vicious gangs, which prowl the town often attacking from roof tops, we are keen to make our move and train out of here to warmer, lower ground in Argentina!!

Love xxox

Kate & Monique

Hola Kuchiwatos (we now speak Quechua)!!

At an altitude of 3300m above sea level, a temp of about -3 degrees and an univiting time of the morning, we made our debut in Cuzco. On advice of the Lonely planet we puffed our way up about 200 stairs (puffing due to altitude not lack of fitness!!!!) to a recommended hostel.

Ok, while it may not have been -3 it was a LOT colder than we expected and it sent us into a llama wool frenzy, buying matching llama wool and print beanies, socks and mittens. Suffering through bouts of altitude sickness we prepared ourselves for the Inca Trail. We actually tag teamed altitude sickness, one would feel terrible and the other would feel great and be pumped for Inca, this cycle continued for 2 days!! Meaning you never wanted the other person to start feeling better, malicious we know but altitude sickness is not fun.

Newly decked out in a LOT of plastic (pants, shoe covers, rain jackets and Ponchos) and our llama gear we set of for the Inca trail at 5.30AM on Tuesday morning. Our group consisted of our guide Domingo, 5 porters, one cook, a young hippy American couple and us.

Dias Uno
The first so called easy day did start off easy but did not end that way. The first bit of the track was undulating and we stopped frequently to observe the landscape and learn about the history and culture of the Inca´s. We even got to meet a tequila plant in person much to our delight, Kate tried to drink it (those who know Monique can attest that she isnt really a tequilla fan).

The rain started just before lunch, however our trusty porters had rushed ahead to set up our lunch tent and cook us a 5 star meal. Being given a banana at the start of the day and told this was lunch, we were delighted when we found out this was the first of many tall tales from Domingo. After lunch we expected to go down hill for a while then up a gentle hill. Turned out to be another tall tale, we went uphill the whole time. Despite our sluggish ascent, the porters ran past us in sandals with large gas bottles strapped to their backs. We were informed each porter carries about 40kg and they run the whole way to arrive at camp early to set up and cook for the trekkers.

Dias Dos
We woke up at 5.20am to a amazing breakfast (Unfortuantly Monique missed out on Kates beloved crepes due to altitude sickness). We set off unsure about the day ahead as we were told that the first day was very easy compared to the second day, a 17km trek up and down hill. Our experiences of climbing the first pass were very different. Kate powered up the first pass which was a climb from 3300m to a staggering 4200m. Though she kindly waited for Monique who really struggled up the hill due to a lethal combination of asthma, altitude sickness and an empty stomach. In the footsteps of Suzy, infamous for christining Jacobs Ladder, Monique christened the Inca trail a number of times. It was a hard morning but we made it to the top in much better spirits knowing the hardest climb was over.

After a steep downhill trek and Kate unintentionaly flashing the campsite we arrived at lunch, which again was amazing and again Monique could only nibble plain pasta. The second pass followed, this was a steep climb from 3600m to 4000m, which was completed with a much less fatalistic attitude on Moniques part. Then a very steep and slippery trek back down to our campsite at a height of 3500m. This descent was HARSH on the knees and we were convinced we would need reconstructions by the time we arrived at camp. Only able to eat popcorn (a sad fate) the cooks brought Monique plates full at tea time. Not to be confused with dinner time, yes we were well fed, especially Kate who was constantly treated to yummy vego food.

Dias Tres
On our only sleep-in morning, we were awoken early, freezing cold as our tents had not protected us from the harsh elements. We were soaked! Content that we were not the only ones kayaking out of our tent (in the words of Domingo), we set off sore for the short downhill day ahead.

Despite some knee (Kate) and stupid weak ankle (Monique) problems it was a pleasant day with great weather for that time of year. We trekked slowly downhill with Domingo, who fed us information about the trail. After finding out Monique liked orchids, Domingo was on a mission to find as many orchids to photograph as possible, he took this VERY seriously. The American couple powered ahead as they had every day, they were well prepared as they had done a canyon hike not that long before.

Our camp for the night was situated in a spectacular position with views of the surrounding mountains and Inca ruins. In addition to this it had electricity, hot showers and a Discotheque, yes even the Inca trail has one! We spent the night eating (again) and drinking tequila with Domingo who claimed it was his first time. Warm and fuzzy we went to sleep excited for the next day which would see us at the end of our pilgrimage to Machu Picchu.

Dias Cuatro
Machu Picchu
Setting off at 4.30am, we had a 1.5 hr easy (compared to last days) walk to the infamous ruins. We were incredibly lucky with the weather with the clouds clearing and sun shining as we approached, a rarity for this time of year. Machu Picchu was more than we ever imagined. We were first given a tour and information about the ruins from Domingo and were then free to wander around. Settling ourselves into a shady position up the top of the ruins, we enjoyed a peaceful hour just sitting & taking it all in. The whole journey had been such an amazing experience. We had lunch in a cute little town just below the ruins and said our sad, sad goodbyes to our beloved Domingo and headed off on the train ride of a lifetime!!

The train was truly the craziest public transport experience of all time. We were going along (very slowly) when the train started rolling backwards, fast. Then out of nowhere started going forward again, confused we just assumed other trains needed to pass. Towards the end of the four hour ride we were instructed to shut our windows, we later found out this was because rogue kids catapult stones through them at tourists! Soon after this we started to roll backwards again, only to go forwards then backwards AGAIN down the same track! This continued for about an hour until we finally made it back to Cuzco, to our surprise in one piece. We were greeted in Cuzco by 10cm of hail on the ground, apparently we had missed a freak storm!

After an altercation with a taxi driver (who chased us) and a hotel receptionist (who held our bag hostage) we finally collapsed into bed. Determined to leave this hostel - a dingy cold HOLE, Kate set off early the next morning to find a better hostel where we could have a hot shower, wash our clothes and finally be clean again.

We are currently being held hostage in Cuzco due to Moniques festy foot of doom. Due to an infection, Monique had to have a visit from the doctor and an expensive trip to the pharmacy, yes we are sure you are all shocked!! After another foot related incident today, Kate has wrapped Monique in cotton wool and put her on hostel arrest. (Dont worry Mum and Dad, I am totally fine and Kate has assured me I will not loose any limbs in South America.)

Wow that was a big one, should keep you all amused for a while.

xxooxx

Love

Monica and Katisita

Hola!!!

Well we have already told you about the great hostel and showers in Arequipa, however we skipped the part about our new amigo. We met Stefan(o?) on the bus and agreed to share a (very, very tiny) cab and we all ended up sharing a dorm room for 15 soles each, our first encounter with cheap, cheap Peru (15 soles is $6 Aus), which worked out well for all.

We spent our days in Arequipa shopping up a storm. Peru is so cheap (seriously!!!!!!!) it was jewelry and chingy shoes galore (we have a photo for you Jo, it is crazy). In between shopping we hung out with our new buddy and ate and ate CHEAP Peruvian food (E.G 3 courses and wine for 15 soles).

On our last day we decided to do the touristy thing and visit the infamous cloistered monestry which has only recently been opened to public. We were both amused by the history of the nuns in the convent. In the past, the eldest daughter got to marry into a rich family, have kids and inherit all the parents mulla. The second daughter (ie Renee and Bec) had to enter the convent as novices at 12 years old never to be seen again (literally). We liked that one and think our parents should take note of this.

Well that about sums up Arequipa, we loved it and all its cheapness. However we need to move onto stories of Cuzco and the Inca Trail.

Chao Amigos

Yoyo chicas and chicos (running out of Spanish greetings),

On advice from the Marias Casa crew, we headed from San Pedro to a beach town called Iquique (Monique´s likes how it has so many qu´s like her).

We arrived at 5.30 in the morning and were walking very slowly to the hostel as there was some loco´s out and about. Seeing our apprehension a Paddy Wagon stopped to give us a lift. We know you are supposed to be weary of South American cops but given the alternative we hopped in the back.

Despite Monique´s initial reservations (and confusion between hangliding and paragliding) Kate managed to talk her into Paragliding off a really really really high cliff, or gentle slope as Kate preffered to call it!! Despite a little motion sickness it was an AMAZING experience flying over Iquique for 45mins. After requesting to land for fears of vomitting all over her fat suit, Monique crash landed, while Kate had a smooth landing (of course she had the better instructor!!!! or possibly was just more skilled, however this is debatable).

We left Iquique after one night and on a high, only to arrive in the Arica bus terminal. How does one describe Arica?!?!?!?!?

You know you are not off to a good start when the Lonely Planet suggests you be very careful of petty theivery and very pushy taxi drivers. Clutching our bags we ran to the nearest hostel which in the very dim light looked acceptable for one night and an early check-out. Upon close inspection we found it was not so!! It was that bad, despite being on a bus for 5 hours the previous day we could not bring ourselves to shower!! Furthermore we speculated as to whether or not the beds had been changed between guests.

Needless to say the next morning we packed our stuff and found a collectivo (a taxi that takes 5 people) to take us across the border to Peru. After overcoming the language barrier at the borders we made it into Peru safe and sound in a little town called Tacna. Tacna not disimilar to Arica did not impress and we got on the first bus to Arequipa on the recomendation of our collectivo driver.

Arequipa is stunning and after 2 days of travelling we had a hot shower and settled in to our lovely clean hostel (Monique is pretty sure the showers are cleaner than hers at home!!!!!).

We better go explore this beautiful town, we will continue our stories later.

Love and Huggs,

Kate and Monique

Hola!! Buenos Tardes!!

We arrived in San Pedro after a gruelling 16 hr bus trip (having endured sitting next to the muchos muchos smelly baños)!!

We were "kindly" greeted by a gang of locals peddling their hostels to the unsuspecting travellers stepping off the bus. Impatient as always, we quickly chose one and piled into his van, soon on our way to the middle of nowhere. All the time, Monique commenting on how "Wolf Creek" the situation was.

The hostel was a virtual mudhut but was clean and friendly, despite the handless and toothless butler. Who was more adept at opening doors than Monique!! We soon settled into San Pedro and enjoyed many a good meal in the town centre, overdosing continuously on cheese and muchroom empanadas!!

The following day, we hired hardcore mountain goats (well bikes, but goats would have been cool)!! We peddled our way around San Pedro (no not that kind of peddling). Finding a nice but scungy pool to cool ourselves in...to the amusement of 200 tanned chileans who had never before seen legs so white!!

Celebrated Mon´s birthday in San Pedro, seeing in the event with more food and flaming tequila shots through straws!! Meeting an american dog whisperer, a local chilean and a bartender we celebrated through the night. Only to be escorted home at the end of the night by 2 feral dogs who circled us the entire way, chasing off other feral dogs.

Monique extends her thanks to all those who sent birthday wishes, she loves you all!!

Lots of Love from the Atacama Desert

XXOX

Kate & Mon