Chile

Yoyo chicas and chicos (running out of Spanish greetings),

On advice from the Marias Casa crew, we headed from San Pedro to a beach town called Iquique (Monique´s likes how it has so many qu´s like her).

We arrived at 5.30 in the morning and were walking very slowly to the hostel as there was some loco´s out and about. Seeing our apprehension a Paddy Wagon stopped to give us a lift. We know you are supposed to be weary of South American cops but given the alternative we hopped in the back.

Despite Monique´s initial reservations (and confusion between hangliding and paragliding) Kate managed to talk her into Paragliding off a really really really high cliff, or gentle slope as Kate preffered to call it!! Despite a little motion sickness it was an AMAZING experience flying over Iquique for 45mins. After requesting to land for fears of vomitting all over her fat suit, Monique crash landed, while Kate had a smooth landing (of course she had the better instructor!!!! or possibly was just more skilled, however this is debatable).

We left Iquique after one night and on a high, only to arrive in the Arica bus terminal. How does one describe Arica?!?!?!?!?

You know you are not off to a good start when the Lonely Planet suggests you be very careful of petty theivery and very pushy taxi drivers. Clutching our bags we ran to the nearest hostel which in the very dim light looked acceptable for one night and an early check-out. Upon close inspection we found it was not so!! It was that bad, despite being on a bus for 5 hours the previous day we could not bring ourselves to shower!! Furthermore we speculated as to whether or not the beds had been changed between guests.

Needless to say the next morning we packed our stuff and found a collectivo (a taxi that takes 5 people) to take us across the border to Peru. After overcoming the language barrier at the borders we made it into Peru safe and sound in a little town called Tacna. Tacna not disimilar to Arica did not impress and we got on the first bus to Arequipa on the recomendation of our collectivo driver.

Arequipa is stunning and after 2 days of travelling we had a hot shower and settled in to our lovely clean hostel (Monique is pretty sure the showers are cleaner than hers at home!!!!!).

We better go explore this beautiful town, we will continue our stories later.

Love and Huggs,

Kate and Monique

Hola!! Buenos Tardes!!

We arrived in San Pedro after a gruelling 16 hr bus trip (having endured sitting next to the muchos muchos smelly baños)!!

We were "kindly" greeted by a gang of locals peddling their hostels to the unsuspecting travellers stepping off the bus. Impatient as always, we quickly chose one and piled into his van, soon on our way to the middle of nowhere. All the time, Monique commenting on how "Wolf Creek" the situation was.

The hostel was a virtual mudhut but was clean and friendly, despite the handless and toothless butler. Who was more adept at opening doors than Monique!! We soon settled into San Pedro and enjoyed many a good meal in the town centre, overdosing continuously on cheese and muchroom empanadas!!

The following day, we hired hardcore mountain goats (well bikes, but goats would have been cool)!! We peddled our way around San Pedro (no not that kind of peddling). Finding a nice but scungy pool to cool ourselves in...to the amusement of 200 tanned chileans who had never before seen legs so white!!

Celebrated Mon´s birthday in San Pedro, seeing in the event with more food and flaming tequila shots through straws!! Meeting an american dog whisperer, a local chilean and a bartender we celebrated through the night. Only to be escorted home at the end of the night by 2 feral dogs who circled us the entire way, chasing off other feral dogs.

Monique extends her thanks to all those who sent birthday wishes, she loves you all!!

Lots of Love from the Atacama Desert

XXOX

Kate & Mon

Hey Old Man!!

Feliz Cumpleaños!! Hope you had a good one!! We had a drink for you (or ten)!!

Sending our Love from South America

XXOXX

Monique & Kate

Buenos Tardes Amigos

Como Estas? Nosostros esta muy, muy bien.

Intending to only spend one night in La Serena our plans changed rapidly when we met the family that runs Maria´s Casa and we ended up there for 4 nights!! There were tears when we left.

Maria´s Casa was a pretty little hostel with simple rooms but a beautiful garden and most importantly hot showers (most of the time). We arrived at 12pm at the bus station, knowing someone from the hostel was coming to pick us up. Kate was approached by a man saying "Money? Money?" and she refused only to later realise he was saying "Moni, Moni" so we quickly chased after our lift and jumped aboard the back of the ute.

Our first impressions were pretty good, Andres (Money man) promised to discuss the town in depth in the morning, he turned on the hot water and we had hot showers and went to bed satisfied. Things only got better and better from then on. After a bit of a sleep in we woke up to Maria asking us "Cafe? Cafe?" we reluctantly accepted (past experience with SA coffee had not been good). It ended up being the best coffee in the world!!! We soon came to realise that the lonely planet was not wrong when it claimed Maria fusses over weary backpackers. She refuses to let you do your dishes, always wants to help you cook and make you cafe.

After a long day of walking the streets of La Serena, Kate was very disapointed as the Vegetarian restuarant had closed down (they like their Carne) we had naps and a late dinner. At dinner we met Pancho, Maria´s brother who makes beautiful traditional leather shoes and various other products in his studio in the hostel. Pancho´s English is not great and our Spanish is terrible but we had a great conversation none the less. He introduced us to Mango Pisco Sour (BIG MISTAKE!!!!) we were instantly in love it is the yummest liqueur, but dangerous as it is best served straight. We spent the night meeting the rest of the family, drinking Pisco and being taught the Salsa by Maria´s youngest son, Mauricio. Apparently our salsa technique is too "techno". We are pretty sure this mean we are rigid and robotic.

The following day we explored La Serena´s beaches, not particually impressed but we do have very high standards. That night we got a crew together from the hostel and drank Pisco and then let Mauricio take us out on the town. We went to V.I.P (pronounced "vip" by locals, very cute) it is La Serena´s equivilant of the Red Sea. A weird mix of American music (eg the Grease medley), Reggetoni and Salsa. Mauricio assured us there would be lots of tourists there, however, we were the only uncoordinated white girls busting bad moves on the dance floor. Actually we were out done by a our new friend Inka a crazy chica from Amsterdam, her moves were like nothing we had EVER seen before (not in a good way). Despite our lack of dancing skills, we were different and thus very popular, dont worry Simon swimming caps were worn at all times

We spent our last two day just exploring La Serena and doing a tiny bit of shopping (really tiny!!!!). Our last night we went to the Observatory up in the hills overlooking La Serena. It was beautiful we got to see stars, the moon and Saturn. Yes even from earth you can see its rings. It didnt look real, just looked like a tiny white glow in the dark sticker. When we arrived home the boys had waited for us to go dancing again. Monique was firing up for another big night and had to tempt Kate out of bed with Pisco and Lemonade. There was not much dancing that night as Chile is heading Perth way, closing very early on week nights (early for them though is 4am).

Saying good-bye was very difficult, we had made such good friends with everybody. We bought Maria a little pink Gerbra plant and wrote them a Thank-you note in Spanish. Maria loved it and cried upon our departure and hugged us and would not let go. It was the sweetest thing.

We then set off on our 16hr (Yes 16) bus trip to the middle of the Atacama desert. Stories from San Pedro to follow.

Love and miss you all!! Thanks for all the messages & emails!!

xxox

Monique & Kate

Hola!!!!

After 34hrs in transit we made our stinky arrival in Chile. After initial challenges with enterprising taxis and conversion rates, we arrived at Hostel Forestal a cute hostel tucked away in the bohemian district of Santiago. Venturing out on our first night, we overcame initial difficulties with the language barrier and were treated to grande bella food and wine served in large mugs (See photo with mug as large as kates head!). After the generous servings of wine and lack of sleep we finally crashed out.

We woke up to amazingly fresh bread and jam (It was FREE in case you were wondering Oli). Set out for the day to take in the sites of Santiago. Starting at a beautiful park in the middle of the city, Santa Lucia. The view from here revealed the sprawling city below. After taking a million photos and sweating like a couple of perros we moved onto to some lovely markets at the foot of the park. After finding a chemist that gives you what you want (You may now refer to us as Dr.Griffiths and Dr. Levesque), a bag repair lady and a tasty cheese pizza things were looking good.

After wandering through the city, finding ourselves on the wrong sides of the tracks. We eventually rejoined the mainstream tourist masses on the funicular of death. While Kate assured Monique that we were in the "safe" part of the funicular and if it fell we would be cushioned by those in the lower carriages, she later reassessed (while still on the ride) informing that we would die for sure. This was followed by a trip up some (more) stairs to see a very large statue of the vigin mary and then the cable cars of death (Kate was less sure about these!).We survived these experiences and our first day in chile. We topped it off with more pizza and cervaza.

Tomorrow we depart for Valparaiso for New Years. Stayed tuned as we endeavour to keep you up to date as the epic journey unfolds.

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